I sit here now at the airport gate, waiting to board and return home.I woke today to bright sun and blue sky, although it is now clouding over heavily.I checked in online at the business center, and helped an older Irish man with the computer he was struggling with (I'm tech support, even on vacation and with strangers!).I packed my bags, counted my change for the train, and checked out of the hotel.
One last time, I walked to the Station.This time, the manned ticket booths accepted cash, and I made my way to the platform.I only went up the wrong side once, but in my defense the platform stairs weren’t marked A or B as they should have been.
Airport security here is done at the gate, which I think is really smart since you don’t get stuck behind the crush of other passengers for other flights in a big cattle wrangle.It relieved a lot of stress actually.I think I’ll try to read on the flight home, but expect I’ll crash.
Overall, an amazing trip, one I’d more than happily make again.And soon.
Thanks for reading, and sharing this adventure with me.
- A
I found myself done with two of the three museums I’d planned to see by 12:30 PM.The next item on my agenda, a bike tour of the city, wasn’t until 4 PM.I figured I’d spend two hours or so at each museum, have some time for lunch and travel in there, and then head toward the bike tour, but now I had three and a half hours to kill.So, I decided to see if I could avoid the tram and walk my way back to the bike tour location.
Along the way, I came across a high-end shopping street, Pieter Cornelisz Hooftstraat, which was highlighted in my MapEasyguide to Amsterdam (another great resource, though I found the Amsterdam edition lacking in its breadth of coverage).It’s awnings above storefronts were a blessing when the rain showers came.They came hard and fast, and were gone quickly, but occurred twice or three times an hour.My umbrella got a lot of use, but sometimes it was just easier to take cover under an awning and wait it out.
During one shower, I stopped under the awning of Pasta Tricolores, a trattoria. A black lab was tied up outside, and he nudged toward me.All his attention diverted when his owner came out of the shop, though.It was really cute to see and made me miss my pup.I ended up back at the trattoria after exploring the rest of the street, and picked up a small bowl of spinach rigatoni with sliced cherry tomatoes, cheese, red and green peppers, red onions, and a light pesto sauce.The pesto was only slightly garlickly, which was perfect, as I have adverse reactions to heavy garlic.
Since I had time to kill, I followed the tram line north toward the center of the city and nearer to the bike tour shop.This took me through Leidsestraat, blocks and blocks of shopping (lower end than P.C. Hooftstraat, though containing some of the same shops).As it was Saturday, it was teeming with people, but cars and bikes are not allowed, so I only had to mind the pedestrian and tram traffic – half the danger!
I wandered around, found the bike tour shop (Mike's Bike Tours), and covered pretty much all the area between Nieuewe Spieglstraat and Leidsegracht.The latter was somewhat removed from the buzz of the shopping area, and I found an empty park bench overlooking the canal (quite difficult to come by, as it turns out.They’re quite scarce.Not surprising, given that Amsterdam is a city that’s perpetually in motion.Everything moves – the people, the bikes, the trams, the water, the wind.).It was a lovely neighborhood of old canal houses, with canal boats floating by, several local families out strolling (or biking) with children or with their dogs.
Dogs were surprising well represented in Amsterdam, though most were small, Chihuahuas and small terrier-like breeds.I saw no Keeshonden, at which I was extremely surprised, given they originated in The Netherlands.I guess my Jake is more rare than I once believed!
During one of my stints on a park bench, I watched a young photographer and his model on a photo shoot.She was situated on the stairs leading up to what looked like a newly renovated canal house, with a red and white striped umbrella.I found it ironic that he kept dousing the umbrella with water for a shiny effect or to catch the drops on film when she opened the umbrella, given the morning was peppered with significant downpours.
Time moves incredibly slow when you’re waiting for the next milestone. I found myself with about two more hours to kill after I explored the entire area I mentioned above, so I ducked into a café (not a coffeeshop! I’d been well warned there as well about the difference).I grabbed a Cosmo lying on the counter, which to my surprise was in both English and Dutch.The titles and headings were in English; the body of the articles in Dutch.So I could get a sense of the content, if not the detail.I spent some time sipping a latte, IM’ing back home, and eavesdropping on a group of local 20-somethings who were also there.
Shoes!
I explored a couple of shoe stores, both on the P.C. Hooftstraat and on Leidsestraat.I do love European shoes, and by my own fault, I have had to buy or consider buying shoes each time I’ve visited Europe.I looked this time for some closed-toe sneakers or the like, but eventually passed, as the weather cleared up.I did buy shoes in Paris, though.Purple Ked-like things from ESPRIT that were slightly too large.I don’t remember if I still have them… Next time, I’ll have to suck it up and bring sneakers (buy some cool ones in the States) and remember to pack that travel clock.
The Long Anticipated Bike Tour
Finally, it was time for my bike tour.When I’d stopped in earlier, they mentioned they’d cancel the tour if less than 3 people showed up.Given the day’s weather, I was afraid that’d be the case, and then what?But when I strolled into the bike shop, the requisite number of riders was already accounted for.All told, there were 12 of us:a young Indian couple, two young female expats living in Germany, myself, an older gentleman also on his own, a family of 5 Japanese folks, and our tour guide, Petra.Petra’s a native of Amsterdam and has long brownish-blond dreadlocks and an unending supply of energy.
She started with a history of Amsterdam and an overview of the path we’d take, which was to generally cover the entire old part of the city, with a few zigzags into the newer areas as well.We then mounted our bikes.Mine was a bright orange Townie, with navy blue saddle bags on the rear, perfect for storing my purse.It had fat tires and a wide seat, which actually didn’t treat my still-healing tailbone too nicely.It was supposedly seven gears, though I’m not sure I really got it to engage more than four.Shifting was done on the handlebars, and I got the hang of it pretty quickly.
I’m not expert rider, but I can hold my own on a bike, but the Japanese tourists in the group were definitely new to bikes.I ended up behind the row of them, which was dangerous.One young woman was in stiletto heels, and while the natives may do that regularly, it was a recipe for disaster in this case.This same young woman didn’t understand the concept of shifting, either, which caused her to dramatically slow down on the uprises over the canals – and that trickled back to those of us unfortunate enough to be behind her.
Let me tell you, there are very few rules of the road here in Amsterdam relative to bikes.Petra mentioned only one rule – the person with the right of way is the one who shows the least fear.There are stoplights for the bikes, which were generally obeyed, but we crossed several 4-lane roads without stoplights, and truly took our lives and others’ into our hands. Between the bikes and the cars, I’m glad I didn’t cause a crash.
We stopped maybe a dozen places, and each time, Petra gave us an overview of where we were.We started in the museum district, where I’d been that morning; stopped in Dam square, across from the Queen’s palace; went across the Skinny Bridge over the Amstel; rode past the Anne Frank huis (more on that later); cut through Vondelpark (where it’s legal to be naked and have sex in public); and rode through a few trendy neighborhoods in Jordaan.We also walked our bikes through the Red Light District.Less than my favorite part but at least I can say I’ve seen it.
The tour started at 4 PM and by 6:45 PM we were back again at the tour shop.The two expats and I had become friendly on the ride, and they asked me to join them for dinner.I politely declined, as I was next headed to the Anne Frank huis, as it was open until 9 PM that night.Looking back, I should have joined them; it’d have been a great opportunity to get their perspective on living abroad.Lesson learned for next time.
Anne Frank Huis (House)
Though I have to say I was not disappointed with the Anne Frank huis.The line for entry is always long and I’d read somewhere prior to leaving that it was actually best to go as late as possible.The line when we passed on the bike tour was around the building, probably an hour’s wait, if I had to guess.By the time I walked from the bike tour shop to the museum, it was shortly past 7 PM.The line was practically absent, and the patrons few when I got into the building.
You traverse the various stories of the house, with memorabilia and stories and videos at several stops.It surprising to me the eight refugees hid there for as long as they did.The floors creak at every step, and access to fresh air and sunlight was rare.The most poignant part of the museum, for me, was the portion of the wall where the heights of the children were logged.It’s part a passing of time, part a documenting milestones, and a striking reminder of these young people whose lives were shortened cruelly and too soon.
Anne’s diary and loose pages of her writings are also on display in the museum.It’s hard not to imagine the writing she could have done had she survived the war, as she offered such mature insight and creativity for a young woman.
Duly somber, I took a minute after completing the tour to regain my surroundings and consider my options for dinner.Though it was 8 PM, there was still daylight, though it was fading quickly.I decided to pick up something at Centraal Station and bring it back to my room, and get to blogging about my adventures.
I wanted to get started early, but in truth lounged around for a bit.All told I was out the door by 9, heading over to Centraal Station to buy an I amsterdam card from the tourist info office.That was a nightmare that I eventually abandoned.I was going to get a card, which gives you access to transportation all day and free admission to dozens of museums, discounts, and the like.I figured it’d be a good value given I had a lot on my list and wasn’t sure how much tramming I’d need to do.But the line in the office was long and slow and full of groups of men (young and old) starting out their weekend of adventures in Amsterdam.I figured I’d make my day work some other way. And I did.
An indispensible iPhone app has been the Amsterdam Mobile Guide. It was the only place I could find tram routes mapped out, and I used that to figure out which line I needed to get started on my day, and which route would bring me back to Centraal Station after walking all over the city.It includes itineraries for 8, 48, and 72 hours in the city, too, which helped me confirm which sights were a “must-see”.And it’s a free download.
The correct tram identified, I made my way to the museum district.First stop was the Van Gogh museum.I arrived 10 minutes before they opened, and a line had formed but there weren’t more than 75 people in front of me, most of which had an I amsterdam card.The museum opened a few minutes past ten and by 10:15 my coat and umbrella were checked and I was standing in front of one of Van Gogh’s self portraits.The Van Gogh collection fills only one floor, though he was a prolific painter.
It was fascinating to see how his style evolved from the traditional Dutch style of dark muted tones, to playing with color and line.The famous works displayed that I recognized included the scene of his bedroom, one of the vases of Sunflowers, one of the vases of Irises, and the Wheatfield with Crows. This last painting is theorized to be his final, and I once had a framed print of this, in another life.
The remaining two floors of the museum showcased works of artists that knew or were influenced by Van Gogh.I then returned to the Van Gogh section, which had become considerably more crowded by this time.I took a final swing around making mental pictures of what I’d seen, and made my way out.It was just slightly past 11.
A hop, skip and a jump later, I was in line at the Rijksmuseum, the national museum of the Netherlands.
The museum is under construction (and has been for something like seven years) so only a small portion of the building is open with a segment of its total works.I was surprised and disappointed at how small it was, actually.
However, I did see the highlights:Rembrants, Vemeers, dollhouses (intricate in their every detail), and a history of Delftware porcelain (which I later experienced in a washroom – as the toilet seat and lid!).
I learned that the trend in wealthy homes in the 17th century had been porcelain from China; however, a strike in China halted the export of their porcelain and the Delft company stepped in, first doing replicas, and then evolving the style into what it is today.Very clever and opportunistic!
I ran through this museum twice, as well, since the collection was limited.On the second time around, I realized that a significant number of paintings included dogs in some form or another.Being a dog lover, I could appreciate their presence in the various scenes and portraits.
Successfully awake at 6AM local time, I proceeded to snooze for a half hour, then showered and dressed.A breakfast buffet was included with my room, so I took advantage of that. All three mornings of my visit I indulged in croissants and jam.I do love Europe.
The next transportation adventure presented itself in getting to the office.This morning I took the tram. It’s quite easy to do – they leave from Centraal Station, and they have a conductor on board from which you can buy tickets (with cash, and bills, for that matter!).The ride was maybe ten minutes, then another 10 minute walk from the tram stop to the office.I was there before 8:30.
The day was full and hectic, as the new product set I’ve been managing had its general release.I worked late in order to stay synced with the US team for a little longer, but headed out shortly before 7 PM.Then came the challenge of dinner.Co-workers recommended a few places, one of which was a Thai take-away place in Chinatown, call Thai-Bird, which was not too far from my hotel.I decided to do it.But that night, it was pouring and windy.Five minutes into the walk, my jeans were soaked to the knees; my feet frozen.Did I mention I only brought open-toed shoes? Apparently, it’s already fall here, and I missed the memo. :)
I found the Thai place, but people were spilling out into the street, so I passed, and actually landed at a sushi place, Soytasty, not too far from there.It was deserted, save for one other solo woman.I ordered and waited for my food.It took a lifetime to appear.But in the meantime the hostess chatted with me.Just small talk, really, but it was another positive interaction with the Dutch folk!
I brought the sushi back to my room, braving the wind and rain once again.By this time, it was after 9 PM, so I broke into one of the Dutch beers in the mini bar.It was decent, but not exceptional.Once again, stayed up pretty late, but knew I had some leeway with the next day being Saturday.I sank into bed and curled under the down comforter and woke to my iPhone alarm this time without waking up every 2 hours throughout the night.
It's always been easier for me to write what I think and feel than verbalize it. That's what you'll find among the posts of this blog. All of the photos are taken by me, unless otherwise attributed.
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